Appendix 1

Perfume chemicals 31 to 39 of 39

 31. Phentolide/phantolid(e)/AHMI/musk indane
CAS RN 15323-35-0 Polycyclic musk so accumulates in body fat (Huber the Nose, 2005); not permitted under the Swedish Society for Nature Conservation’s Ecolabel system (SSNC, 2006). Good Scents state: “not found in nature.” Per Good Scents irritant, and critical effect: phototoxicity. No hazards listed in ChemIDPlus. Use restricted in EU due to phototoxicity (SCCNFP, 2001)
 32. Vetivert acetate
CAS RNs CAS RNs 117-98-6 and 62563-80-8 Also used as flavouring. Good Scents say “natural” (no sources cited). No hazard data in Good Scents in 2006 apart from stipulation re production chemistry. 2008 listing says that it is irritant. No toxicology data in ChemIDPlus for CAS RN 117-98-6 but 62563-80-8 is cited as a skin/eye irritant. IFRA say: “Acetylated vetiver oil should only be used as a fragrance ingredient if produced by methods which give products free from allergens.” (IFRA, 2008) SCCP stated in 2006 that guinea pig tests suggest that the chemical is a weak allergen, and also that “The SCCP is of the opinion that the information submitted is inadequate to assess the safe use of the substance.” (SCCP, 2006)
 33. Patchouli
CAS RN 8014-09-3 I have assumed that natural essential oil is meant. Irritant per Good Scents Skin/eye irritant per ChemIDPlus. Per Good Scents MSDS in 2006 (not sure which form of patchouli) irritating to eyes and respiratory system. Good Scents MSDS gave rabbit skin irritation data but also said irritation “not determined.” No MSDS in 2008 for most forms of patchouli. Patchouli ethanone is aka boisvelone, listed as no. 3 above. Good Scents MSDS for patchouli hexanol, CAS RN 98-52-2, states: “irritating to eyes, respiratory system, and skin”; skin and eye irritation and human experience “not determined”, and main page cites irritancy. ChemIDPlus does not cite irritancy for this chemical.
 34. Geranyl phenylacetate
CAS RN CAS RNs 102-22-7, 10522-32-4 and 71648-43-6 (latter per Good Scents, not found in ChemIDPlus, despite Good Scents link for that CAS RN). Good Scents state: “not found in nature.” No hazard info in Good Scents. No reference to irritancy in ChemIDPlus for either of the first 2 CAS RNs. The Joint FAO/WHO Expert Committee on Food Additives states: “No safety concern at current levels of intake when used as a flavouring agent.” (JECFA, 2002)
 35. Okoumal
CAS RN 131812-67-4 Polycyclic musk so accumulates in body fat (Huber the Nose, 2005); not permitted under the Swedish Society for Nature Conservation’s Ecolabel system (SSNC, 2006). Good Scents state: “not found in nature.” “Not reported as being found in nature” per Givaudan in 2006, who also described it as “extremely long lasting (more than 1 week)”; URL no longer working. “Remarkably long lasting” (Prashantkumar, 2008). “Returning home after a week or two...I was able to sniff some Okoumal from the left (the lab… I spilled some of it once….it is truly remarkable lasting!).” (Tauer, 2006) No health data in Good Scents or ChemIDPlus.
 36. Citronellyl acetate
CAS RN 150-84-5 Widespread natural occurrence. Irritant per Good Scents main page. Irritating to skin and eyes per Good Scents MSDS, which also cites severe rabbit skin irritation but eye irritation “not determined.” Human experience: “4% solution: no irritation or sensitization” per Good Scents MSDS. Skin/eye irritant per ChemIDPlus. Good Scents do not cite irritancy for l isomer, CAS RN 67601-05-2; nor do ChemIDPlus.
 37. Phenyl ethyl alcohol
CAS RN 60-12-8 Found naturally in huge range of plants and plant products. No reference to irritancy on Good Scents main page, but Good Scents MSDS states: “irritating to skin and eyes” and cites moderate rabbit skin irritation and severe rabbit eye irritation. It also says: “human experience: 100%: no skin irritation. 8% solution: non-sensitising.” Good Scents MSDS also states: “Harmful. Harmful in contact with skin and if swallowed” and that inhalation data, mutagenicity data and phototoxicity data are not determined. ChemIDPlus states that it is skin/eye irritant. Scorecard states: “3 of 8 basic tests to identify chemical hazards have not been conducted on this chemical, or are not publicly available according to US EPA's 1998 hazard data availability study.”
 38. Flor acetate
Confusion over identity (overlap with no. 18, tricyclodecenyl acetate) CAS RN 54830-99-8 Good Scents state: “not found in nature.” No safety data in Good Scents or ChemIDPlus.
 39. Diethyl phthalate
CAS RN 84-66-2 Good Scents state: “not found in nature.” Irritancy not cited in Good Scents. ChemIDPlus cites it as skin/eye irritant. Scorecard list it as suspected: “Endocrine Toxicant, Gastrointestinal or Liver Toxicant, Immunotoxicant, Neurotoxicant, Reproductive Toxicant, Respiratory Toxicant (and) Skin or Sense Organ Toxicant.” Significantly decreases levels of acetylcholinesterase (AChE), the natural enzyme which breaks down the essential neurotransmitter acetylcholine (ACh) in fish, in which “DEP brings about significant changes in the activity of certain liver and muscle enzymes.” (Ghorpade et al., 2002) The full text of this article states that, due to the lipophilic nature of DEP, it “may be taken up much faster by brain tissue than by muscle tissue. Hence, immediately after addition of DEP to the tanks, the fish were inactive for quite some time.” This enzyme and neurotransmitter are also vital in humans.

The full text of this article states that, due to the lipophilic nature of DEP, it “may be taken up much faster by brain tissue than by muscle tissue. Hence, immediately after addition of DEP to the tanks, the fish were inactive for quite some time.” This enzyme and neurotransmitter are also vital in humans. (ATSDR, 1996)

Per IPCS Inchem Concise International Chemical Assessment Document: “Once absorbed, diethyl phthalate is widely distributed in the body.” (Inchem, 2003)

Linked with genital malformation in male human infants (Swan et al., 2005)